There is an old popular saying in Hindi, “roti, kapda aur makan” (food, cloth and shelter), which often refers to the three necessities of life. Food, a pivotal necessity, is a fundamental driver of human existence. However, we do not realize that something as simple as food speaks leaps and bounds about us, our communities, and our culture. It is more than a medium that satisfies our hunger—it encompasses religions, occupations, countries, and social classes. Therefore, food also undoubtedly plays a crucial role in postmodern times like today.
What do postmodernism and culture even mean?
Multifaceted, postmodernism is a concept wherein modernist ideas came to be blatantly rejected for their rationality and objective truth. Instead, ideas of a fragmented reality and paradox emerged in the fields of philosophy and art that took place in the late 20th century. The popular understanding of postmodernity lies in the need for diverse perspectives, a fluid sense of identity, and ambiguous playfulness. Simon Malpas, in his book, The Postmodern, takes a similar route of pluralism to capture the essence of the movement. He suggests postmodernism as a contemporary, multinational lifestyle wherein consumer choice and international markets are prioritized. Additionally, how multiple communities are victims of deregulation and disruption, these factors thus contribute to a pluralistic and paradoxical nature.
This nature is also adopted by culture. But what is culture, after all?
According to William H Sewell, it is an ever-changing set of symbols, meanings, and practices continually impacted by social interactions. These are brought into action through cultural expression. Expression allows one or a community to communicate and embody their values, cultural identities, and experiences. Food is one form of cultural expression that sets a community apart from another, thus being a communication tool. The foods we choose, reject, and prepare reflect our cultural identities, making food a powerful communication tool. For instance, the Italian dining experience highlights not only the preparation but also the sharing of meals with loved ones. It not only reflects the various influences the community has undergone but also highlights its role in bonding and social interaction, making it a crucial lens for understanding society and people.
The recognition of this idea of studying the history of an area through an alternative way adds to the postmodern attitude that stimulates the seeking of new perspectives.
One must know that a recipe doesn’t only consist of ingredients but also acts as an information portal of its historical influences, practices, and environment. Food practices associated with a dish reveal a community's values, and norms through its rituals and customs. Food has become an easy mode of acknowledging this culture because it is a visual medium. Furthermore, you can taste it (unlike any other cultural expression), wherein all the senses are heightened. This creates a more intimate and personal experience for the individual. For instance, appam, a pancake-like staple from Kerala, was introduced to the country by the Jewish communities, who arrived in India during the 1st century. Its ingredients and preparation reflect both Indian Jewish origins and Kerala's unique geography which makes it optimal for making appams.
The postmodern times are also characterized by cross-cultural influences which are boosted through the internet and globalization. Various cultural backgrounds began to intersect, which brought in the desire to blend elements reflecting interconnectedness. This especially took place with food and fusion cuisine. Western multinational fast-food chains like McDonald's localize their menus by incorporating homegrown ingredients to suit local palettes. This is why McDonald's introduced the McAloo Tikki burger, the infamous vegetarian burger for the large vegetarian market in India in 1998.
The diaspora communities have contributed to this exchange too. Thanks to the efficient transnational migration process, (a feature of postmodernism), immigrants bring a part of their home through their recipes and attempt to recreate them with available resources in the new country. Not only do the processes change, but also do the food practices and traditions with the birth of hybrid dishes. The Tex-Mex cuisine, for example, is a fusion of American and Mexican foods which was brought by the immigrants. This cuisine, however, is relatively recent and still evolving. The experiments are part of the postmodern food culture which is a mirror to the globalized world of culinary ideas.
However, there is an unfortunate flip side to this. Jean Baudrillard's concept of ‘simulacra’ can be used to explain the position of food in the postmodern era. Simulacra refers to a hyperreality wherein one begins to believe in the simulation more than the reality, thus taking its place in most cases. Similarly, it explains how mass food production creates a hyperreality, disconnecting food from its essence through false advertising and branding.
It becomes clear therefore that food is an imperative part of postmodernity. It becomes an avenue to understand a community/region's history, traditions, and heritage and also contributes extensively to the economy through food tourism, resulting in a platform for cultural exchange to take place. It acts as primary evidence for cross-cultural influence and hybridity (main features of postmodernity) through fusion foods. And lastly, one could argue for the loss of the food ‘experience’ due to the hyperreal nature of postmodernism. Through all these perspectives, one must understand that food will always be an integral part of the culture and that it is ever evolving and adapting to the ‘spirit of the age’.
Ishani Kadu
